Apartment living...in Egypt

We moved into our apartment today, around 1pm and Hunter mused, "this is the first apartment we've ever rented and it's in Egypt."
The past few days have been punctuated by a number of 'firsts': first time to be in a country where my command of the language is less than stunning; first time to order food using more hand gestures than words; first time to see the garbage collected by mule-drawn carriage; first time to take a shower and not be able to allow the water into your mouth; first time to buy groceries using only Arabic. Needless to say living here presents some very unexpected obstacles and challenges. But the people here are so hospitable you cannot be but smitten with the place. By 2pm the desert sun bares down on you with unbelievable intensity but luckily that is the generally accepted nap time. Cairenes, or in Arabic, miSreen, retire to an air conditioned or shady spot for a few hours until the worst has passed. Admittedly I believe I do stand out a bit more than Hunter--I don't think strawberry blond hair is a norm here. But the attention we receive from looking like obvious foreigners is not negative at all. Consider the seven times young teen school girls have giggled amongst their friends only to shout some welcoming phrase to us in English, followed by more giggling chatter with their companions. If you have a smile on your face people treat you accordingly and I believe that is pretty universal. But here people will go out of their way to return your greeting, smile, or nod, a practice many Americans could afford to learn.

Off the record, on the QT, and very, khush khush
~E

Day One

Well, traveling was everything I could ever hope it to be—a couple of beers and a glass of wine on the plane to keep me placid amidst the chorus of crying children. We had our beer and brauts in the Frankfurt aiport, a staple of any good German diet. After landing in Cairo and nearly losing Hunter in a crowd of Egyptians eager to greet relatives exiting the airport, we were driven by a college student from Ayn Shams University to our hotel, El-Nil. A friendly, non-English speaking attendant helped us with ours bags to the room on the second floor. Satisfied with our small hotel room with two twin beds, I reached into my pocket and handed the bellman a bill, not realizing this was a five dollar note I received in change after buying my visa stamps. Customarily it is appropriate to give perhaps 5EP for a tip, maximum. I had, without meaning to, given him 5 times that amount. He stared incredulously for a moment at the bill in his hand and then thanked me profusely. After Hunter pointed out what I had done, I rebuked myself, until, that is, we received a call from the front desk about five minutes later asking if we would like to change rooms. I agreed on the condition that we see the room first. After just a moment the same bellman knocked on our door and led us to what would be our new room. The ghorfa or room itself was very similar to the previous one yet, when he opened the curtains, I understood what prompted the change. The window had a pristine view of the moonlit Nile River and both Hunter and I were momentarily breath-taken. My so-called blunder in the excessive tip ended up not so bad after all!

After a night of good sleep, we were off to explore Cairo, specifically the area near our hotel, called Zamalek, an island on the Nile. And here I sit on my bed, listening to the sounds of a city of 20 million, a cool Nile breeze blowing our curtains gently. Alhamdulileh, God be praised indeed.